Minibar: It's Among the Top Five Whitney Dining Experiences...

I am not an "easy to please" diner. In fact, my professional food background makes me an ornery dining companion and I often wish it weren't so. Everything gets scrutinized to the nth degree and it has been known to take the fun out of going out to eat for me... and occasionally, my husband. Although, I have learned to keep my complaints under wraps for every one's sake.

When we walked into Cafe Atlantico in Downtown D.C., I was surprised to find a relatively comfortable and relaxed environment. The "guts" of the room were exposed (big, white HVAC vents and pipes running across the walls and ceiling) and the tables were sort of haphazardly set on white table cloths. The dominant features were big, bright oil paintings and a massive stairway leading to the unknown.

We apologized for being a little early (so eager were we to get out on our own, I think we arrived almost 30 minutes before our 8:30 reservation). They seemed delighted that we were so punctual and offered to seat us at the "downstairs bar" for a pre-dinner cocktail. I ordered a "Pineapple Caiparihna" and Stefan ordered a "Grey Goose Martini with a twist." Our server returned a moment later with the news that they were "all out of Grey Goose." Hmmm... "That's strange," I thought as I looked behind the bar at a giant, full, 2 liter bottle of the Goose. I was up in arms already, but Stefan assured me that he'd be just as happy with the Hangar One our server had sugested as an alternative.

We sipped our cocktails and wondered outloud where we would ultimately be seated. The host had given no indication. "Where's the minibar?"

At one point, our server returned with a small book, the winelist, and proceeded to list our "options" for ordering wine while we ate our 27 course "minibar experience."

"These are flights." He pointed to a list of four distinct "flights of wine," and explained that each was a 2 oz. pour and that we'd end up with about 3 full glasses of wine if we chose that route. Gulp. 75$ a person for three glasses of wine.

Then he turned the page and offered that, "these are half-bottles and we recommend choosing three to accompany your experience." The least expensive "mini-bottle" was 38$.

And finally, on the last two pages, full bottles of very expensive sparkling, white and red wines were listed. Our server explained that this was the least interesting option, because it limits opportunity (but certainly not the impact on our wallet...)

We chose the mini bottles and were shortly therafter, guided up that massive staircase to the second floor, where the "minibar" was located. Six seats, three chefs, and 27 courses of pure culinary intrigue awaited.

Almost immediately, upon sitting down, one of the chefs gave us the rundown of what to expect: "There are 27 courses, in total-- divided loosely into three sections: snacks, entrees and desserts. Most are intended to be one bite, but we will instruct you as to how many you should take with each course. We will place each course on the glass and ask that you pull each one down in front of you to eat. The servers will clear from the left, behind you. Feel free to ask questions and enjoy your meal."

We started with a cool, smoky "Passion Fruit and Mezcal Marguerita," served in a tiny, hollowed-out Passion Fruit and topped with Mezcal Tequila "foam," (yes, there was a LOT of the now semi-passe foam being tossed around). This was quickly followed by "Beet Tumbleweed," "The Popcorn," "Sea Bean Tempura," and "Bagels and Lox." None of these, with the exceptions of the "Tumbleweed" and the "Sea Bean Tempura" were what you would think. "The Popcorn," which has become a signature dish, is a completely deconstructed "one-bite" type of affair that looks nothing like buttered popcorn, but completely captures its essence. The "Bagels and Lox" looked more like a tiny ice cream cone, in which cream cheese "soup" is topped with tiny postules of salmon essence, made by the chefs one by one, and surprisingly "pop" in your mouth like caviar (that sort of begs the question... "why not use caviar?"). The undeniable standouts of the "Munichies" section were the savory "Ferrero Rocher" and the "Cotton Candy Eel."

As we moved through to the next section, "Flavors and Textures," we were delighted by the smoked raw oyster with apple. Stefan was almost moved to tears by the "Zucchini in Textures." A smoky, smooth layer of caramelized Zucchini custard is topped with a fresh and salty Zucchini gelee and finished with effervescent, hand-picked Zucchini seeds. Seemingly a strange choice for my husband's favorite, but zucchini has never tasted so good. Seriously.

I have never been much of a "Umi" fan, but minibar's "Sea Urchin with Hibiscus Foam," somehow how took away the slimy, livery texture of the sea urchin without compromising the pure taste of the sea it is so well known for. The next three dishes, "Organic Carrots with Coconut," "Sweet Peas Catalan Style," and "Corn on the Cob" were real show stoppers and perhaps, the most molecularly gastronomic (see pictures).

The final entry into what amounts to the entree section of the meal was a "Philly Cheeesteak," which is a puffy, cheese-filled pastry, topped with thinly-sliced, nearly-raw, delicately-marbled Wagyu beef. It explodes and drips down your fingers and chin while you eat it, just like its inspiration and it's even better, for it's sophisticated while being completely simplistic in flavor.

The dessert section seemed slightly less inspired (but only compared to what preceded it). There were "Strawberries with Cream and Sun dried Tomatoes," "Japanese Baby (green) Peaches with Burrata," and a non-specific, "Thai Dessert," which included all the most familiar Thai flavors without giving any of its ingredients away.

Minibar at Cafe Atlantico was an incredibly interesting experience-- completely varied and unexpected. Though, I am loath to make such an obviously cheesy comparison, we DID go there to celebrate our anniversary and I couldn't help but think what a fine metaphor it makes for our life together; It's unbelievably delicious, constantly surprising, never what I expect, but always, just perfect.